Our second full day in Vienna was action-packed. My sister-in-law Susan and I had hoofed it over to the fabulous Sisi Museum in the Hofburg Palace and then wandered back through the streets of Vienna’s Innere Stadt (Inner City), passing by an unusual clock on our way. This, we discovered, was called the Ankeruhr or Anchor Clock.  It was built by the Anker Insurance Company in 1914 and features 12 Viennese historical figures that appear during their hour. They include Empress Maria Theresia and Joseph Haydn.  A crowd gathers at each hour, but especially at noon, when all twelve characters appear while organ music plays. It is quite a lovely sight.

We were then off to the Lugeck restaurant which we had spotted the night before.  We were led upstairs to a table overlooking the square and enjoyed our hearty repast of traditional Viennese tavern food.

After a bit more shopping, we regrouped and headed to the most celebrated Christmas Market in all of Europe: the Weiner Christkindlmarkt. This market is in the Rathausplatz. The Rathaus, by the way, is the City Hall.  (Calling it a Rat House seems ever so appropriate!) This huge market—it is the largest in the world—features 100 vendors of all things Christmas, but also includes a skating rink and carnival rides, as well as many lighting displays.

Sue and I were easily able to walk there, and arrived at about 5 p.m.  Of course, it was already dark, the better to appreciate the fabulous lights.  In addition, on the hour, a large red heart appears and travels on wires above the market to a tree covered in red hearts. 

We had decided to have our dinner there and opted for a frankfurter with a cup of Glühwein(mulled wine)  to wash it down. 

We watched the skaters, admired booth after booth of decorations, food, and clothing, and we did our part for the Viennese economy.

After shopping and dinner, we wandered over to the park side of the Rathausplatz and decided to take a ride on the Ferris wheel. As we rose into the air with the beautifully illuminated Rathaus behind us, we felt the magic of the season. 

The market was very busy, even though it was a Monday evening.  This market is open from 10 a.m. till 10 p.m. from November 10 till the day after Christmas.  We saw many families there with their young children enjoying the skating and displays.  What a treat!

Speaking of treats,  I decided it was time for dessert, so we found a stand that was making chimney cakes, or trdelnik. These are made by putting strips of dough around a spit which is baked over a fire and then rolled in cinnamon sugar. How bad could that be? A warm pastry coated in cinnamon sugar? Yes, please!

We found our way back home clutching our Gluhwein and munching our trdelnik, like real natives. Vienna was our happy place.